Monday, February 8, 2010

Varanasi - The Nadesar Palace Hotel

The Itinerary:
"Feb 7: Delhi - Varanasi. Board the mid-morning flight to Varanasi. Check in to your hotel upon arrival. There is a break for lunch."
The Nadesar Palace Hotel property was built by the East India Company in 1795 and the Maharaja Prabhu Narain Singh used it as his city residence in 1899. More recently, the Taj Hotel group restored it and converted it to a small hotel. While the hotel is new, and landscaping is still underway, I think we are going to enjoy this brief taste of Colonial era comfort. The rooms are named for famous visitors who have stayed at the palace. Our room is the "Pandit Nehru Suite", named for the first India prime minister, who was on the guest register in 1952.

Varanasi is one of the prime photo destinations for Sigrid this trip, and there are not many decent hotel options, so we burned some travel points for an extra night.

Our tour operators get us to the Delhi airport and meet us in Varanasi. Surprisingly, we may have packed too much.


The hotel

Our room


Lunch on the Veranda

Dinner Selections:

Appetizer

"Maharajah Tali"

Black Lentils were incredible

Lamb Kebob

Naan


India Date: 07-Feb-2010 2:00 PM

Saturday, February 6, 2010

Delhi Power Tour


Our last full day in Delhi. Today's Itinerary:
"Start your exploration of India with a city tour of Old Delhi that includes visits to the Jama Masjid (1650 AD) which is the largest mosque in India, and the amazing Red Fort (1639-48) which was the seat of the Moghul Empire for more than 250 years. Enjoy a rickshaw ride along the alleys of the ancient bazaar at Chandni Chowk. You also visit the cremation site of Mahatma Gandhi (Raj Ghat). Enjoy a city tour of New Delhi that begins with a drive past Safdarjang's Tomb (1753 AD) while driving to the Qutab Minar (1193 A.D.) which is a striking medieval tower of victory of Persian architectural style and is 239 ft high. Within the Qutab complex, amidst the ruins of Quwat-ul-Islam mosque, stands the Iron pillar which has stood the vagaries of weather and has not rusted over 1500 years. Later, visit the Tomb Moghul Emperor Humayun and then drive through Lutyens New Delhi which includes the Embassy area (Diplomatic enclave), Government buildings, India Gate, a golden domed Sikh Temple (Bangla Sahib Gurudwara), Birla Temple and Connaught Place, which is New Delhi’s main shopping area."
Our guide Shurveer must have wondered about the the number of sites on the day's itinerary. He diplomatically asked whether we wanted to spend more time at any one site or just see how much we could get it. Sigrid opted for the "get as much in as possible", and we were off and running. I am familiar with the "Power Tour" concept, but am usually on the "giving" rather than "receiving side".









Editors Note: A lot of these are on "must see" list for tourists, so we knocked them out in a day. I am running behind on the blog, so posted a selection of pics, and will add captions later.

Editors Note 2: I am actually posting from Varanasi - I woke up at 4:00 AM to watch the Superbowl. It is not on. Soccer, tennis, cricket and basketball are all on, but no Superbowl. Go figger. I can see from the Intertubes that the Colts are winning 10-3. I'd miss the second half anyway. Heading out for the dawn rituals on the Ganges River.

Old Delhi

After breakfast, we meet our guide Shurveer (pictured in the Rickshaw above) and a driver for a day long tour of Old Delhi. The description of the morning activity from the itinerary:
"Start your exploration of India with a city tour of Old Delhi that includes visits to the Jama Masjid (1650 AD) which is the largest mosque in India, and the amazing Red Fort (1639-48) which was the seat of the Moghul Empire for more than 250 years. Enjoy a rickshaw ride along the alleys of the ancient bazaar at Chandni Chowk."
It was a power tour covering a lot of ground. The Rickshaw ride through the market was amazing. I'll add another post later to cover the rest of the tour, but that ride deserved a post of its own. We felt sorry for the guy who got the short straw, and had to pull the two big ass Americans through the frenetic market.


video




I was fascinated by the chaotic spaghetti-like maze of electric power lines filling the narrow overhead space between and crawling up the sides of the old buildings.


It reminded me of this old etching from turn of the century New York City.


Delhi time: 06-Feb-2010 12:00 PM

Friday, February 5, 2010

Red Fort at Night

On the recommendation of a local, we arrange to attend the Sound and Light show at The Red Fort this evening. Our cab driver Lala gets us there and back. There were a few glitches - the concierge told us the show was at 7:30, but actually the English Show started at 8:30 while the Hindi Show started at 7:00. We were late for the Hindi show, and early for the English. Since Lala was waiting to meet us at 8:30, we decided to catch the Hindi.

It was not what we expected, although I am not sure exactly what we were expecting - maybe lasers and music. The actual show comprised of sitting in a courtyard inside the Red Fort compound, among a variety of buildings and structures. The buildings surrounding us light up in various colors and talk to us and each other from around the court yard.

video

Since it was all in Hindi, we had no idea what the buildings were telling us. At one point they seemed to be laughing at us.


Still, the cab ride over and back was worth the price of admission,. Lala got us there and back to the hotel without incident. I would never attempt driving in Delhi.

A Hendricks Martini at Rick's Cafe helped settle the nerves.


Delhi Time: 05-Feb-2010 11:30 PM

Khan Market

The Khan Market is an easy walk from the hotel. The concierge cautioned us that the "touts" would tell us that the market is closed. It was a useful warning. All along the walk we had jitney drivers and pedestrians greet us, pace us and offer advice. "The Khan market is closed. It is a holiday, they are closed today." "They only have restaurants open, I will take you a real Indian bazaar." "You are staying at the hotel? I work at the hotel! The Khan market is closed today. I will show you a better market." The closer we got to the market, the more strident they became -"You must turn here! Not that way! This way! The market is this way!" Unsurpisingly, we later learned they are paid a commission for bringing tourists to the non-Kahn Market shops.

We stayed the course and made it to the market. The market was not closed.

Sigrid got a pashina and I picked up a blank book made of handmade paper with an enameled cover from Handpaper World. It is a cool store. Even the receipt was printed on handmade paper and the shopping bag was fashioned from recycled newspaper. I'll use it to keep a trip journal as I have in other travel adventures(while the the intertube is available at our current hotel - we won't have it for many parts of the trip).

Scenes from the Khan Market:



Delhi Time: 05-Feb-2010 6:00 2:00 PM

Thursday, February 4, 2010

New Delhi

View from our room

Arrived late last night. We flew on a Continental 777 co-share with United. While Continental does a better job than United, flying 14 hours in economy is still flying14 hours in economy. It is not made easier on a full flight with an unhappy 14 month old across the aisle. Just something to be endured. Sigrid handled the flight with stoicism and grace for at least 12 of the 14 hours. Our tour representative found us at the airport and we made it the hotel and crashed

We'll be relaxing, recovering, and exploring the hotel grounds and neighborhood this morning.
Hotel pool.

Breakfast

Breakfast buffet comes with the room and includes traditional English, Japanese, and Indian selections. Sigrid went with an omelette, while I focused on Indian specialties. It was good, although I was not sure what I was eating. This is a top quality hotel, so we' threw caution to the wind and enjoyed the fruits, yogurts, chutneys, and fresh squeezed juice. So far so good.

Note: The blog posts are posting using San Francisco time/date. Undecided how to handle this - right now I'll just all the add the local time in the body of the post.

Delhi Time: Friday 05-Feb-10 10:00 AM

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

Newark airport

On our way. The long leg ahead. This is it for the Pre, at least until we are in WiFi range.

-- Sent from my Palm Pre

SFO

First of 3 airports. Heading to Newark.

-- Sent from my Palm Pre

India Tour

Sigrid and I will be spending the the next three weeks or so touring northern India and Nepal. As usual, this blog will serve as journal and photo album, subject to the limitations of internet access, technology, time and patience. We were calling this trip "From Timbuktu to Kathmandu" as we were planning on traveling with Wes and Susan, friends we met on our West Africa tour. Unfortunately that plan did not work out, but it is a big world and much to see and we will find another place and time to tour with our favorite travel buddies (um... Stan & Lisa - we of course mean co-favorites). Heading to the airport soon - looking forward to getting there, but not looking forward to the next 24 hours or so of airports and economy class seats. Stay tuned.

Saturday, January 30, 2010

Bringing it home on 18

Battery died after this shot, so there will be no traditional 19th hole wrap-up pic. Instead we end with my equally traditional corkscrew finish, which miraculously followed a decent tee shot down the left side, on the way to bogey.

MW 105 (4 skins)
RE 112 (8 skins)
RZ 112 (5 skins)
CC 119

Team finished -18, tied for first but lost on the tie-breaker.
-- Sent from my Palm Pre

Carolyn's 2nd on 17



-- Sent from my Palm Pre

Rick harvesting grapes in the vineyard



-- Sent from my Palm Pre

Roy hits his 3rd ball in the water.

Cormorant and mallards scramble for cover, while Carolyn looks on in amazement.

-- Sent from my Palm Pre

Rick puts it on the 11th green

And a two putt par.

-- Sent from my Palm Pre

At the turn

Mw 55
RE 55
RZ 57
CC 59

Team is -9

-- Sent from my Palm Pre

Roy tees off on 8



-- Sent from my Palm Pre

Carolyn on 6



-- Sent from my Palm Pre

Missing my birdie putt on 4

Got the par.

-- Sent from my Palm Pre

Rick tees off on 4



-- Sent from my Palm Pre

Roy and Carolyn on the 2nd tee

Carolyn has the bad luck of being put in our foursome. We used to work together at Oracle.

-- Sent from my Palm Pre

Live Blogging Poppy Ridge


OGC Tournament with Roy and Rick.
-- Sent from my Palm Pre

Sunday, January 10, 2010

19th Hole

Roy did not make it into this shot. He was too humiliated about the 14 trees he bruised.

MW 102 6 skins
RE 107 6 skins
RZ 107 5 skins
AZ 108 Non gambler

-- Sent from my Palm Pre

Brent Plater's worst nightmare.

Ran into Butch Larroche in the bar. Up until now, I only knew him online from the Sharp Park battle blogs. As it turns out, we'd rather have a beer and talk about golf & football (Green Bay is getting crushed 17-0), than CBD or Plater.

Still, this toast is for you Brent.

-- Sent from my Palm Pre

Tee shots on 17


Rick is short right. Roy is long left. Way left. Across 17th and 16th fairway into ice plants on the berm left. No trees though. He only has 14 trees through 16 holes

-- Sent from my Palm Pre



--
Posted By mw to MW Mobile Blog at 1/10/2010 01:32:00 PM

Watching my tee shot on 16...

...fail to catch the usual reliable slice and wind up on the 17th fairway.

-- Sent from my Palm Pre

So I casually say to Adam that his par putt is a "knee-knocker"

He shrugs his shoulders and says "not really". Then he misses it for a three putt bogey. Some people never learn.

-- Sent from my Palm Pre

Ricks 2nd shot on 14

That is his son running toward his tee shot in the very far distance.

-- Sent from my Palm Pre

Scenes from the 12th

Red fox observes golfer.

Golfers observe frog habitat.

That is my tee shot in the foreground. I three putt from here.

-- Sent from my Palm Pre

UPDATE: Croppedand edited the fox pictures to see if we could get a little closer image.




Good looking animal. Non-plussed by golfers and looking well fed, healthy with a pretty coat. Must be that red-legged frog diet.

At the turn

MW 51
RE 51
RZ 55
AZ 56

Roy has 5 skins I have 2 Rick 1

-- Sent from my Palm Pre

Adam with another short approach on 9

Strikingly similar to his approach shot when here last November 8. Then he spit in the eyes of the golf gods. This time he said "I MAY get a birdie." Which is less annoying to the golf gods. He hit it to four feet and...

drano. Adam owns this hole.

-- Sent from my Palm Pre

On the short par 3 8th

Neither Zwick made it to the hole.

-- Sent from my Palm Pre

Roy missed this tree on the left

So now he only has hit 7 trees in 7 holes.

-- Sent from my Palm Pre

My tee shot on 6

230 yards in the middle of the fairway.

-- Sent from my Palm Pre

Adam tees off on 5

It looks good at this stage of the swing.

-- Sent from my Palm Pre

Roy tees off on 4

Into his 6th tree.

-- Sent from my Palm Pre

Roys 2nd on 3


After hitting his 4th and 5th tree.
-- Sent from my Palm Pre

Zwick the Elder tees off on 2

On his way to a bogey and a skin.

-- Sent from my Palm Pre

Live blogging Sharp Park

Playing with Roy, Rick & Adam.

A bit chilly.

-- Sent from my Palm Pre

Tuesday, January 5, 2010

Mirkarimi and Me

To be fair, he hasn't given anything away yet. I am just working up some ideas, should Mirkarimi decide to run for mayor as some expect.

Some context - I have been blogging about the Sharp Park Golf course controversy for a number of months. For reference, the full thread on this blog is linked here, a background post here, good overviews in the San Francisco Chronicle here and here.

In a nutshell - Last year, the Center for Biological Diversity (CBD) wrote a letter threatening to sue the city of San Francisco alleging golf operations at Sharp Park were harming two endangered species. In March of '09, Supervisor Ross Mirkarimi sponsored a resolution to study alternative solutions to the problem, including keeping, destroying or modifying the course. The recently released report was approved by the SF Park & Rec Commission. It recommends continuing the course operations, with modifications to enhance the habitat for the endangered species. The CBD and their allies continue to advocate a different course of action. They want the City to destroy the golf course and give the land away to the National Park Service, specifically the Golden Gate National Recreation Area (GGNRA). Supervisor Mirkarimi, while non-committal, seems sympathetic to that plan.

Which brings me to this exchange between Mirkarimi and me during the public comment portion of the San Francisco Government Audit and Oversight Committee (2 minute excerpt from the SFGTV recording of the 4 hour meeting):

video

Ok. So, as my time ran out Supervisor Mirkarimi slapped me down pretty hard. That is fine. This was his committee and his venue, and he gets the last word.

But this is my blog, and I get the last word here.

Now I know that this will come across as a "Damn, I wish I said that..." post, long after the moment has passed. It will come across like that because... that is exactly what I am doing. While I was loaded for bear on Sharp Park minutiae, I was ignorant of the history of Crissy Field and the GGNRA as I stood in front of Supervisor Mirkarimi.

I am less ignorant now. So how about a little "compare and contrast" between Crissy Field and Sharp Park?

Crissy Field
Crissy Field was an airfield, built on landfill, that since 1915 was Part of the Presidio Army Base. Congress decided to close the base in 1989, and it was turned over to the National Park Service in 1994. It never belonged to the City of San Francisco. The 100 acre Crissy Field site was considered a hazardous waste dump, and over 87,000 tons of hazardous material had to be hauled away before the process of restoring the site could proceed. The Golden Gate National Parks Conservancy (a public private partnership), did an extraordinary job raising the tens of millions of dollars needed to restore the site during the tech bubble of the late nineties. In partnership with the National Park Service, the 100 acre site was restored for the recreational use of all, including a relatively small 20 acre tidal marshland. It is now administered by the Golden Gate National Recreation Area (GGNRA). As I suggested in my comments to Supervisor Mirkarimi, all involved did an excellent job with Crissy Field, converting 100 acres of federal land that was a hazardous waste dump into federal land that is now a wonderful park. Kudos.

Sharp Park
In 1917, the 400+ acres of land near Pacifica known as Sharp Park was bequeathed to the City and County of San Francisco by the Murphey family. The deed specified the land be used exclusively for park and recreational purposes for the benefit of all. The golf course, comprising about 80 acres of that land, was designed and built by Alister MacKenzie, the world's most important golf course architect and opened in 1931. The park was landscaped by John McLaren, the godfather of San Francisco parks, including Golden Gate Park (which is also administered by SF Rec & Parks, not the GGNRA). The park and the golf course are important historical landmarks by any standard. It is historically important to the city of San Francisco, the city of Pacifica and to the golf world in general. Over the years, millions of people have enjoyed the course, the archery range, the rifle range, the hiking trails and and the beach that comprise the park land. Today, over 54,000 rounds per year from Sharp Park help subsidize the overhead costs for the San Francisco Park and Recreation Department as well as other city services and jobs. The park is a unique gem that was a gift to the people of San Francisco, belongs to the people of San Francisco, and is a legacy for future generations of San Franciscans. Unless Supervisor Markarimi succceeds in giving it away.

So let's review:

Crissy Field was a 100 acre federal landfill and hazardous material dump that was converted by GGNRA and private partners into a 100 acre federal park that The City could neither afford to restore or operate.

Sharp Park was a 400 acre oceanfront gift to the people of San Francisco. The park is home to an historic landmark golf course by the game's greatest architect, is enjoyed by hundreds of thousands of people every year, and helps subsidize overhead costs for the SF Rec & Park Department operations.

I think it is safe to say they are different.

So once again Supervisor Mirkarimi, I ask you - Do you want this to be your legacy? Do you want your footnote in San Francisco history to be this: "He was the man who gave away 400 acres of coastal park land that belonged to the people of San Francisco."

I'll take my answer off-line.

Monday, January 4, 2010

Preview of Coming Attractions: India Tour

Your loyal blogger took this unauthorized photo of the line we found ourselves in when picking up our India Visas. Yes, the MW Mobile blog will be touring Northern India and Nepal in February. With visas in hand, and arms sore from vaccinations, it is getting real now.

Undecided about bringing the Prē. The Sprint phone won't work, but I will be able to mobile link via hotspots. If there was a Google voice app for the Prē
, it would be an easier call. Decisions... decisions.

-- Sent from my Palm Prē

Saturday, December 26, 2009

19th hole

MW 99
JG 106
PG 122
Andrew 78 (We won't be playing with him again)
-- Sent from my Palm Prē

Jim bringing it home on 18



-- Sent from my Palm Prē

Andrew on 17th tee

I was one up on him for the par 3s on the back. He hit this tee shot 50 feet short (from the blues). I hit mine on the green pin high. Then Andrew hit a miracle shot from 50 feet into the hole for a birdie. I three-putted for a bogey. Life is not fair.

-- Sent from my Palm Prē

Traditional 17th portrait


-- Sent from my Palm Prē


Jim sent this pic from his Blackberry. I don't know why he uses such archaic technology. Anyway - he caught me mid-blog.

Andrew on 16

We are having a little par 3 competition on the back. I am one up after parring 12 to his bogey, and we tied here with 5's.

-- Sent from my Palm Prē

Jim missing a putt on 9

Patrick is wondering who his real father is.

-- Sent from my Palm Prē

We are playing with Andrew

He is what we call a "real golfer".

he is 3 over par through 11.

But not old enough to drink. So... I've got that going for me.

-- Sent from my Palm Prē

Missing my birdie putt on 10

Got the par.

-- Sent from my Palm Prē

At the turn..

JG 49
MW 50
PG unknown

-- Sent from my Palm Prē

Jim misses his par putt on 8



-- Sent from my Palm Prē

Pat tees off on six ...

Under the watchful gaze of the golf gods.

On his way to sinking a 30 foot putt and his ever first par in his very first round of golf ever.Well done.

-- Sent from my Palm Prē

Jim's 2nd shot on 4

That is his son Pat standing by his tee shot in the far distance. Jim almost made it to Pat's ball with this, his second shot.

-- Sent from my Palm Prē

Jim hits it right on 3

Off the hill and almost on the green.

On his way to matching my par.

-- Sent from my Palm Prē

Live blogging Lincoln

With Jim and Pat

-- Sent from my Palm Prē